ago in Volkswagen by
Inspection have been successfully put behind me, because the diva strikes mercilessly. For months there were always problems with the trunk lid (without automatic): sometimes it closed smoothly, sometimes you had to close it twice because the first time it closed, it jumped open again. This was completely irregular and was unpredictable.

Now a new problem: the trunk no longer opens. Tried everything. Here is the state of play:

1. When you unlock the driver's door, you hear a slightly scratchy sound (like sparks) that ends after seconds. The locking motor does nothing.

2. The emergency opening by key does not work either; the key cannot even be turned.

3. Remote control and emblem button do not deliver any result either.

4. Nothing is stuck between the frame and the flap.

What can be done now? A visit to the workshop a few months ago did not produce a convincing result. They wanted to replace the complete locking system immediately ("A new lock has to be made there"). However, this can in no way be a mechanical problem, because the whole thing kept going in between.

A few minutes before it was no longer opening, it worked wonderfully yesterday. Now, as is always the case, there are important things in the trunk that I need.

Anyone here knows a tip / a solution to open the trunk. I tried everything. I have no confidence in the workshop anymore, they have so far failed.

7 Answers

+1 vote
ago by
I had the same problem, the trunk lid didn't close by itself or didn't open at some point. Cause: My wife had thought that the locking mechanism was like her Golf, slamming it several times and then it was closed. Only at some point nothing worked.

In the workshop, a completely new lock was installed for me, luckily on a guarantee because I thought it must be a "manufacturing defect". So I can't say anything about the cost. Since then, everything has gone error-free ... and my wife is prohibited from driving.
+1 vote
ago by
This also happened to me on my 1st Phaeton with manual trunk opening. Even the key could no longer be turned at first.

In a large workshop, the mechanic finally managed to open the trunk lid by pushing the lid down firmly while turning the key to release the tension.

Maybe you can do it too.
+1 vote
ago by
I had the same symptoms on mine as on you.

The trunk no longer opened on the day of the trip - only with the key.

I then had the fault memory read out - tailgate control unit defective.

Error deleted - now it opens and closes again (sometimes you have to close it twice, since it opens again on its own, as with you). According to VW, a new control unit would have to be in order for it to function properly again.
+1 vote
ago by
3 weeks ago my reversing light suddenly stopped working, a week later my trunk (without servo) no longer opened, neither from the front in the driver's door nor via the wireless key. With the key in the tailgate lock, the flap could be opened without any problems (although I triggered the alarm system several times). My friend wanted to prepare myself mentally for a repair that lasted several days, so I took action last weekend. I removed the fairing (two screws under the warning triangle and two screws in the recessed grips) and the box in which the wiring harness disappears (a hair-raising construction) as well. And lo and behold, two cables were broken, which is no wonder with this construction. After repairing the cables using a soldering iron and assembling this box (you actually need at least four hands), everything starting working again without any problems, both the rear light and the opening mechanism. I guess you have the same problem. If you like to tinker with the car, this repair is highly recommended, for inexperienced people it is not necessarily suitable.
+1 vote
ago by
The same as for me, but my knew immediately, $50 for cladding and soldering was ok. The problem with the electronics is apparently due to most of the second water pump! It does not cool the alternator well enough and therefore you regularly have too little tension. My friend had exchanged this right at the beginning. All ground points were improved and 3 additional ones set. Since then I have hardly any electronics problems.
+1 vote
ago by
The cable breaks are inside this ominous box, in which the cable harness forms an S-shaped loop and compensates for the difference in length of the cable harness each time the trunk is opened. Here it always bends with a very narrow radius, which of course inevitably leads to material fatigue. I cannot imagine that this construction can last longer than 100,000 km. Depending on whether someone has already tinkered with it here, the cables are still inside the original hose with this strange fabric, or are already exposed. If they are still covered, you have to remove the protective cover, which does not protect anyway, then the cables are exposed. After the repair, the cables can be combined again with insulating tape or Teflon tape or whatever, so that they can move better inside the box. There are no limits to the ingenuity and skill of the hobbyist.
+1 vote
ago by
Was on vacation and packed my car before going home - as did the trunk. Closed with automatic closing. Then wanted to put something in it. Didn't work anymore. Neither front left switch, nor tailgate actuation nor radio remote control. Nothing. Zero! Then tried with the key. Didn't sway. Was closed. I did the electronic gymnastics for over 1 hour and addressed every single servomotor. Have already made an appointment with the mechanic so that he opens the flap mechanically.

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